How to Repair Vintage Costume Jewelry

Replacing Rhinestones

Replacing missing stones in vintage jewelry is usually not a problem as replacement rhinestones are plentiful online or at local rock or craft/bead stores. Be careful to match size and colors as even a slight variation in color because even a slight difference is noticeable and will decrease the value of the jewellery. Be sure to check for color and fit by actually placing the chosen rhinestone into the place it's to be glued before actually doing any gluing.

About Adhesives:  Instant glues like "crazy glues" are not recommended for replacing stones in vintage costume jewelry because it breaks down, and the stone will eventually fall out.  Household epoxy should not be used as it will eventually "yellow."  The convenient needle tip glues you see frequently online for replacing stones, in my opinion, just doesn't work very well. They are very convenient for getting inside the cup of a lost stone but the stones easily pop out with even careful handling. Nail polish is also a poor choice. It is best to use a clear-drying jeweler's cement which can be purchased through dealers or craft and hobby shops.  One brand that comes to mind is called "Clear Epoxy 330."

Do not replace or remove foil backing on vintage rhinestones, but do remove any debris or chunks that can be scooped out with a toothpick or q-tip.  It is best to keep the original foil on vintage rhinestones in place.

To replace a stone, use either a pair of tweezers or a wet tip of your finger to pick up the stone and carefully place it into it's setting, which you have already placed a drop of glue or adhesive. No matter how careful you are, and even if you think you didn't, you likely did have some accidental overspill of the adhesive.  So it is crucial to wipe the area on the costume jewelry piece to guarantee successful results.

Use acetone or a dab of alcohol on a cloth to carefully remove excess adhesives after you replace a stone.  I do it before the glue has had a chance to dry.  If you have an old piece of jewelry that someone has obviously used incorrect or yellowing glue on, it is also possible to use these solvents to remove old dried yellow adhesives. Be careful, however, NOT to use acetone on plastics, and be sure to test an inconspicuous area for any solvent onto a plastic material to be sure it is compatible and won't damage the piece.  Allow your vintage costume jewelry to dry for at least two hours, and preferably overnight.

Prong Set Jewelry Pieces

Before re-setting prong set rhinestones, the prongs need to be fully opened with a pair of jeweler's pliers, or another tool you find you can easily work with.  (A friend of mine uses a toothbrush handle.)   Some people prefer to use adhesives on prong set jewelry as well; this practice is up to the owner of the piece.  Of course you shouldn't need to use glue to hold in a prong set stone, but for extra assurance, many people do. Just be sure to close the prongs after the glue dries.

Green or Rusty Crud on Metal on Vintage Costume Jewelry

When your vintage jewelry has a green or patina'd surface it is a sign that oxidation has occurred.  When you remove this oxidation, you are actually also removing a part of the piece itself.  You can try picking tools like toothpick, dental picks, and the like to take material off the jewelry, and follow this up with a q-tip and distilled water or alcohol.  Make sure the piece remains as dry as possible to prevent further damage.

More Extensive Vintage Jewelry Repair Problems

Soldering and replating costume jewelry can be done but it is not easy to find someone to do it due to the delicate nature of the pieces.  And matching colors and finishes is next to impossible.  Attempting to solder a piece yourself can easily result in destruction of the jewelry and/or stones.  It is best to contact your local jeweler for advice or referral to whom in your area may have expertise needed.  Some manufacturers of vintage costume jewelry are still in business and may help you replace or fix one of their pieces. You can contact individual manufacturers at their customer service addresses, or check out our list of repair professionals.

To Repair or Not to Repair Costume Jewelry

Much like antique furniture, the more a piece of collectible, estate, or costume jewelry is fooled around with, the bigger potential to lose its value.  If you are not concerned with value or keeping the piece for future generations, and just want to, say, wear it to a special party, then have at it, my friend.  Costume jewelry is, after all, costume jewelry.  Restoration or repair of any vintage costume jewelry piece and whether it is advisable to do so is much debated by collectors, and ultimately of course is dependent on your own preferences.